Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee
Doxa has collaborated with Hodinkee on a limited edition Sub Army 200T, a vintage-inspired dive watch based on a rare 1969 model developed for Swiss Army divers. This new iteration scales down the original's dimensions for modern wearability while retaining its military aesthetic with a muted, sun-worn color palette and specific design cues.
- Limited to 250 pieces
- Price: US$2,000
- 39mm steel case
- Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement
- 200m water resistance
- 38-hour power reserve
The watch is modeled on a 1969 dive watch developed for the Swiss army's elite divers, scaled down from the original 42.5mm or 45mm to a more wearable 39mm.
The design evokes vintage military equipment with a unique dial design, featuring grey markings with faux-vintage lume and a stamped granular texture, and a faded, 'ghost' finish on the hour markers.
The cushion-shaped steel case is finished with circular graining on its top, and the unidirectional bezel has an anodized grey aluminum insert.
The Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement is described as a basic but competent workhorse, appropriate for the watch's price point.
The collaboration aimed to recreate the aesthetic of a rare and obscure 1969 Doxa 'Army' watch, issued in tiny numbers for Swiss Army combat diving unit support personnel.
The dial features a sand-colored textured surface, a checkerboard track, and a custom color-matched date wheel in 'Hodinkee Grey,' with a faded appearance.
Anodized aluminum was chosen for the bezel insert to allow it to patina over time, unlike ceramic, and the minute markers were intentionally spared during anodizing to reveal the underlying texture.
The bezel features a standard 60-minute countdown track instead of Doxa's 'No-Deco' scale, and the numerals are filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova.