Twelve on Time: Manuel Emch on His Relationship with Time and Watches
This installment of the "Twelve on Time" series features Manuel Emch, the driving force behind Louis Erard. Emch discusses his personal philosophy on watchmaking, emphasizing character, thoughtful design, and cultural relevance over artificial scarcity and hype. He shares his admiration for watches that challenge conventions and his belief that brands must remain connected to contemporary culture to resonate with younger collectors.
Emch cites the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 and its creator Günter Blümlein as profoundly influential, appreciating its exceptional movement, design, and innovative time display.
He values 'character' in a watch above all, stating a timepiece should possess a distinct personality recognizable without a logo.
Emch prefers simple, time-only watches but is drawn to off-centered indications like those found on the Grande Seconde, which subtly alter the perception of time.
He criticizes artificial scarcity and collaborations used purely as commercial tools, advocating for limited editions and partnerships rooted in genuine friendship and shared vision.
The dial is highlighted as a critical detail where care is evident, noting the importance of proportions, depth, textures, typography, and finishing.
Emch believes the Quartz Crisis ultimately saved mechanical watchmaking by forcing the industry to rediscover its value in craftsmanship, emotion, and culture.
He identifies remaining culturally relevant as the greatest challenge for the watch industry, as young collectors seek authenticity and meaning.
Contemporary art, architecture, and industrial design are significant sources of inspiration, influencing his view that watches should engage with current culture.