The Rising Creativity of China’s Independent Watchmakers
This article highlights five independent Chinese watch brands that are challenging preconceptions about the country's watchmaking capabilities. These brands showcase a blend of tradition, craftsmanship, creativity, and technical skill, moving beyond imitation to establish unique identities in the global watch industry.
- Qin Gan Pastorale II: 38.5mm diameter, 9.5mm height, champlevé enamel dial, calibre 1810 (based on Longines 30L) mostly in-house finished, limited to ~15 pieces/year.
- Fam Al-Hut Mobiüs: Bi-retrograde display with bi-axis tourbillon, integrated strap, won GPHG Audacity Prize.
- Atelier Wen Perception V3: Uses French-made Pequignet calibre EPM03, hand-made guilloché dial by Cheng Yucai.
- Qian GuoBiao AB-05 Skylight: In-house AB-05 calibre with exposed keyless works, balance wheel, and escapement.
- Peacock Divine Craft Ultra-Thin Tourbillon: Features a one-minute flying tourbillon with Gyromax balance, hand-finished dial with over 1,000 grooves.
The Qin Gan Pastorale II features a silver or champagne-coloured dial with a champlevé enamel finish and refined hour, minute, and second markings.
The Qin Gan Pastorale II's calibre 1810 movement is largely manufactured and finished in-house, incorporating gold chatons, a new click spring, and a balance wheel with adjustable weight screws.
Fam Al-Hut's Mobiüs watch has a pill-shaped case and a unique bi-retrograde display for time in the lower section, with a bi-axis tourbillon escapement under a domed sapphire crystal in the upper section.
Atelier Wen's Perception V3, despite switching to a French movement, retains traditional Chinese details, including a dial entirely hand-made by China's first master guillocheur, Cheng Yucai.
Qian GuoBiao's AB-05 Skylight watch features an open-worked dial revealing key mechanical elements like the keyless works, balance wheel, and escapement.
The Peacock Divine Craft Ultra-Thin Tourbillon's dial is hand-finished with an artisan carving over 1,000 individual grooves using a hammer and chisel.